Use a dark foundation by two shades of your
skin colour. Its job is to create shadows, to slim, minimize and
hollow. So, it should essentially be matte as any sheen
would catch the light and bring it to the fore.
Its job is to pick out your high spots like your cheek
bones, brow bones chin and the centre of your nose. They can be
peach, ivory or white with silver or gold sheen.
Slimming a Plump Face : Shade the temple
hollows just in front of the hairline and create more definite
hollows under the cheek bones. Apply highlighter on the brow bone,
blending up beyond the brow itself to bring the bone forward.
Highlight and cheekbone from its highest point along towards the
Shortening a Long Face : Blend shader from
just under the chin slightly upwards onto the chin mound.